Logitech Z623,speaker system - Service Manuals and Schematics Fulltext search Schematics 4 Free Service manuals, schematics, documentation, programs, electronics, hobby. (welcome to eserviceinfo.com at 19 Aug 04:25 pm GMT) news /news Login: Password: Fulltext search results This is the full text index of all Service Manuals, schematics, datasheets and repair information documents. Files are decompressed (supported zip and rar multipart archives) Text is extracted from adobe acrobat pdf or plain text documents so that you are able to perform searches inside the files. Enter Search results for: Logitech Z623,speaker system File File in archive Date Context Class Size Popular Mfg Model Relevance Added by Teac-SPX2i speaker.pdf 28-4-2010 SR-X2i 3.
Logitech z623 THX Speaker System Review Build 3.0 Sound 3.2 DSP Sound 3.8 Oh how the mighty have fallen. When THX was first introduced as a standard all of the top brands rushed to get certified by Lucasflim. One of my Kinergetics Class A amps is THX certified, the amp needed to be biased for higher output to meet the spec back in 1996. The THX standard ended up getting spun off as a separate entity, and the blasphemers at sound card maker Creative Labs are the current owners. The standard has been watered down to a loudness spec, ability to play 85dB with 20dB peaks, so just about any ole garbage can be THX certified. Design Overview: The Logitech z623 speakers follow the standard 2.1 satellite and subwoofer format. While it may be the standard I'm not a fan of subwoofers and this is only the second product I've reviewed that has one.
Component Overview: Driver Satellites use a 2.5' full range driver, and once the grill is removed the driver actually looks pretty nice. The surround is a soft butyl rubber, and instead of a dust camp or whizzer there is a nice shiny phase plug in the center of the driver. Back of the driver shows the z623's are magnetically shielded and seem pretty well made.
Grills Removing the grills took a bit of paper clip folding, but came off cleanly once I applied the right amount of force. Grills are a metal mesh and seem open enough to not interfere too much. Subwoofer The subwoofer driver is supposed to be an 8 inch, but once you remove the massive grill the driver shrinks down to a little over 7 inches across. Stamped steel basket, big magnet, paper cone, and foam surround - looks like a pretty good driver considering the price of the system. No vented pole piece on this driver, instead there are tiny holes in the cone behind the dust cap to vent the pressure.
Spider looks generic but functional. Cabinet/Amp/Port The satellites are two piece ABS plastic and have 6 screws holding the two halves together.
Honestly this is probably good enough because the driver is so small, and crossover point so high. The subwoofer cabinet is 9x12x11 inches and cheap mdf, but heavier than I expected. In comparison to the size of the box, the port on this subwoofer is massive. 2.5 inch diameter and 10 inches in length with port flares on both sides, it takes up a large amount of the box volume. Power supply and amp boards are both built into the subwoofer. Lots of chips in there doing a bunch of stuff. I'm guessing there is some logic for switching inputs, some equalization, a crossover for the sub, and 3 channels of class D amplification.
Inputs The z623 speakers have two inputs, RCA and 1/8 inch headphone jack. There is no way to switch inputs and I didn't bother trying to play two sources at the same time, so I have no idea how switching is handled. Controls Right speaker has volume and bass knobs. Volume pot seems clean and I did not notice any imbalance or static while testing. Bass knob has a centering indent so you can find the default position easily.
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Also, there is a headphone output and an aux input on the side of this satellite. Desktop Setup: Satellites are very sensitive to placement.
A slight toe-in and elevation with some blocks of wood make for pretty good imaging, although the sound is a bit too directional for my taste. Listening Notes: Bass is really heavy, turning down the knob removes a bit too much of the 300-100Hz range without cutting the 60Hz mess that is actually the problem. Just going to have to deal with the bass as is to keep the midrange balance. Sounds like three separate speakers with the sub being crossed too high and having an obnoxiously audible cabinet resonance. Midrange does not sound bad, maybe just a slight rising response.
The z623's are pretty awful, better than the in stock form, but it's pretty bad. Turns music into movie special effects. Treble is spiky and headache inducing in the dog whistle range. I've now got a massive headache from the treble. Fuck this shit, I'm done.
Measurements: These little sat sub combos are a pain to measure accurately. I've got to fight room modes in the crossover region, as well as phase cancelation and other not good things. This is a close mic of the satellites. Keep in mind with close mic the treble response is going to taper off and there is an artificial hump around the resonant frequency of the driver. Regardless of the anomalies in the measurement it's clear above 6k the little full range drivers are having a panic attack from being played too high. For the bass response I'm using a technique I just came up with, 'kind of close ground plane measurement.' Basically to avoid floor bounce the mic goes on the floor like a traditional ground plan measurement, and to keep room modes to a minimum the mic is kept equidistant between the port and woofer 1 foot away from the corner of the sub.
DSP Correction: Working from left to right. I cut a massive chunk of the bass, and then used that headroom to extend the bass to about 32Hz.
There was a resonance of some kind coming from the subwoofer in the 600Hz range. I had to cut it, and it sounds better now. Leveled off the rising response in the midrange, and chopped the nasty cone breakup distortion above 10k. Corrected Listening Notes: Audiophile music sounds great on this, of course well recorded music sounds good on almost anything. Playing M O O N's Hydrogen track measures 105dB at 50Hz before the amp runs out of juice and starts distorting. This is enough to get you evicted from most apartments, more importantly, it meets the THX standard.
Trying for more, the deep bass in M O O N's Release has headroom falling to about 95db at 35Hz before the subwoofer runs out of excursion. Bass coverage is pretty even with the subwoofer close enough to kick.
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Too much of the subs performance feels like port noise instead of driver, but for the most part it's doing the job. Bass guitar is audible as an instrument instead of blending in with drums. The full range driver once corrected is actually pretty low distortion, and the amp sounds clean on this setup unless you push it too hard. Still sounds like three speakers instead of a musical performance.
Download bleach sub indo mkv 480p. Final Thoughts: I came in with extremely low expectations, and while the treble in stock form is unlistenable to me. The result I got out of the subwoofer with DSP is enough to give the Logitech z623 a close look in the $100 range. The Logitech z623's are noise makers, and nothing is going to change that. There is not a lot of musicality to the speakers. To get musicality you are going to need to put up with less bass, and probably pay more money. Program stok barang.
Logitech Z623 Repair Manual
Review Scores: Build Quality Tweeter - Woofer 3 Cabinet 2 Features 5 Crossover 3 Amp 3 Subwoofer 2 Score 3.0 Sound Quality Neutrality 3 Bass 1 Extension 7 Treble 0 Midrange 3 Headroom 7 Dispersion 4 Detail 1 Imaging 3 Score 3.2 DSP Sound Quality Neutrality 6 Bass 3 Extension 7 Treble 1 Midrange 3 Headroom 5 Dispersion 4 Detail 2 Imaging 3 Score 3.8 Check out the to see what I recommend. Other content you may like:.
YoAndy said: Yeah sounds like you need a new system. If you have tried different inputs and still dead the AMP is faulty or the sub is dead. You should have a look at the software of your sound card. Is the upmix function enabled or did you choose the wrong speakers say: Headphones instead of 2.1 speakers. When the upmix function is enabled the device only works if you plug in 1 jack for all speakers. If it is disabled then you need to plug in all jacks.
Just took another peek at the settings, it's all pretty much set to default since day one of using these speakers. Also selected 2.1 speakers as the profile as well. The audio comes out of the two speakers just fine, it's just the boom that's missing. The subwoofer was working again out of nowhere for a day, but then it just went out again. So I thought it might be an issue with the aux cord, bought and replaced it with another cord but that didn't fix the issue either.
I think you're right, the amp is faulty and it's time to look for another system! YoAndy said: Yeah sounds like you need a new system.
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If you have tried different inputs and still dead the AMP is faulty or the sub is dead. You should have a look at the software of your sound card.
Is the upmix function enabled or did you choose the wrong speakers say: Headphones instead of 2.1 speakers. When the upmix function is enabled the device only works if you plug in 1 jack for all speakers.
If it is disabled then you need to plug in all jacks. Just took another peek at the settings, it's all pretty much set to default since day one of using these speakers.
Also selected 2.1 speakers as the profile as well. The audio comes out of the two speakers just fine, it's just the boom that's missing.
Logitech Speaker System Z623 Service Manual![]()
The subwoofer was working again out of nowhere for a day, but then it just went out again. So I thought it might be an issue with the aux cord, bought and replaced it with another cord but that didn't fix the issue either. I think you're right, the amp is faulty and it's time to look for another system!
Good Luck and make sure you read reviews before you buy a new system. Americanaudiophile said: Since it's not working with your PC or phone the problem is in Logitech.
Bad subwoofer amp would be first guess. If it's in warranty contact Logitech. Otherwise in would probably not be worth paying a tech to repair. No reason you can't take a shot at it yourself. So, I have run into the same issue.
The sub itself just stopped working, but right and left worked. One day it would work for a few minutes, then nothing. A few things I have tried are sound card adjustments, new cables, opening up the sub and replacing the 4Ah 250V fuses, both of them, and it still was intermittent. Finally I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner on the d-link cable and input on the sub box. Been working for an hour without cutting out again.
Not saying it's a guarantee, but before dropping another $100-$150 on a new system, better to do some basic tests and hope they work.
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